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Boundary layer approach in the modeling of breaking solitary wave runup
Adityawan M.B.a,b, Tanaka H.b, Lin P.c
a Water Resources Engineering Research Group, Institut Teknologi Bandung, Indonesia
b Department of Civil Engineering, Tohoku University, Japan
c State Key Laboratory of Hydraulics and Mountain River Engineering, Sichuan University, China
[vc_row][vc_column][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner][vc_separator css=”.vc_custom_1624529070653{padding-top: 30px !important;padding-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][vc_row_inner layout=”boxed”][vc_column_inner width=”3/4″ css=”.vc_custom_1624695412187{border-right-width: 1px !important;border-right-color: #dddddd !important;border-right-style: solid !important;border-radius: 1px !important;}”][vc_empty_space][megatron_heading title=”Abstract” size=”size-sm” text_align=”text-left”][vc_column_text]The boundary layer is very important in the relation between wave motion and bed stress, such as sediment transport. It is a known fact that bed stress behavior is highly influenced by the boundary layer beneath the waves. Specifically, the boundary layer underneath wave runup is difficult to assess and thus, it has not yet been widely discussed, although its importance is significant. In this study, the shallow water equation (SWE) prediction of wave motion is improved by being coupled with the k-. Ω model, as opposed to the conventional empirical method, to approximate bed stress. Subsequently, the First Order Center Scheme and Monotonic Upstream Scheme of Conservation Laws (FORCE MUSCL), which is a finite volume shock-capturing scheme, is applied to extend the SWE range for breaking wave simulation. The proposed simultaneous coupling method (SCM) assumes the depth-averaged velocity from the SWE is equivalent to free stream velocity. In turn, free stream velocity is used to calculate a pressure gradient, which is then used by the k-. Ω model to approximate bed stress. Finally, this approximation is applied to the momentum equation in the SWE. Two experimental cases will be used to verify the SCM by comparing runup height, surface fluctuation, bed stress, and turbulent intensity values. The SCM shows good comparison to experimental data for all before-mentioned parameters. Further analysis shows that the wave Reynolds number increases as the wave propagates and that the turbulence behavior in the boundary layer gradually changes, such as the increase of turbulent intensity. © 2012 Elsevier B.V.[/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space][vc_separator css=”.vc_custom_1624528584150{padding-top: 25px !important;padding-bottom: 25px !important;}”][vc_empty_space][megatron_heading title=”Author keywords” size=”size-sm” text_align=”text-left”][vc_column_text]Breaking waves,Conservation law,Coupling methods,Depth-averaged velocities,Empirical method,Finite volume,First order,Free-stream velocity,Momentum equation,Run-up heights,Shallow water equations,Shock-capturing,Stress behavior,Surface fluctuations,Turbulent intensities,Wave motions,Wave runup[/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space][vc_separator css=”.vc_custom_1624528584150{padding-top: 25px !important;padding-bottom: 25px !important;}”][vc_empty_space][megatron_heading title=”Indexed keywords” size=”size-sm” text_align=”text-left”][vc_column_text]Bed stress,Boundary layer,Breaking wave,Simultaneous coupling method,Solitary wave,Wave runup[/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space][vc_separator css=”.vc_custom_1624528584150{padding-top: 25px !important;padding-bottom: 25px !important;}”][vc_empty_space][megatron_heading title=”Funding details” size=”size-sm” text_align=”text-left”][vc_column_text]The authors would like to thank the financial supports from Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research from Japan Society for Promotion of Science ( No. 21360230 , No. 22360193 , and No. 2301367 ), the River Environmental Fund (REF) from the Foundation of River and Watershed Environmental Management (FOREM), Japan , Open Fund from State Key laboratory of Hydraulics and Mountain River Engineering ( SKLH-OF-0907 ), Natural Science Foundation of China ( 51061130547 and 51279120 ). The first author is a Postdoctoral Fellow granted by JSPS ( No. P11367 ).[/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space][vc_separator css=”.vc_custom_1624528584150{padding-top: 25px !important;padding-bottom: 25px !important;}”][vc_empty_space][megatron_heading title=”DOI” size=”size-sm” text_align=”text-left”][vc_column_text]https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.11.005[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/4″][vc_column_text]Widget Plumx[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_separator css=”.vc_custom_1624528584150{padding-top: 25px !important;padding-bottom: 25px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row]